Saturday, September 8, 2012

Review of MAC Prep + Prime Face Protect SPF50

 

I got a sample of this from my MAC store the other day. It is not as light as I would like, but still nice under makeup. $36.50 CAD for 30mL

Active Ingredients: 

  • Zinc oxide 16.1% (absorbs UVB, UVA1&UVA2)

  • Octinoxate 7.5% (absorbs UVB) 

Pros:

  • Easy to find if you have a MAC store close by

  • Primer and sunscreen in one

  • High amount of zinc oxide, but again, since I am in Canada, there is no way to tell how much UVA protection this actually provides. 

  • Cosmetically elegant with good oil control and prevented my makeup from melting off in hot, humid weather. 

Cons:

  • Texture is a bit thick so may be difficult to re-apply over makeup

  • High amount of silicones therefore can be pore-clogging  

     

    UPDATE DEC 2012: MAC has changed the formulation for this and the oil control has decreased. I don't recommend this anymore.

My Beauty Diary Black Pearl Mask Review



I find this similar to the MBD Apple Polyphenol Mask, but I prefer the apple scent. Some people don't like this as much as the apple mask, perhaps it's due to the increased amount of butylene glycol.

My Beauty Diary Black Pearl Mask Ingredients



  • Aqua - water
  • Butylene Glycol - humectant and solvent with anti-microbial action; enhances the preservative activity of parabens
  • Glycerin - humectant, draws moisture from the air thus helps the skin to retain moisture
  • Propylene Glycol - humectant, draws moisture from the air
  • Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice - hydrating, softening, soothing, and anti-inflammatory
  • Sodium Hyaluronate - hydrates down to the deeper layers of skin; holds up to 1000 times its weight in water
  • Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract - pineapple juice contains AHAs therefore it is exfoliating
  • Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract - skin brightening with exfoliating, antibacterial, antiseptic, astringent properties
  • Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract - soothing, hydrating, and anti-inflammatory
  • Ubiquinone - aka coenzyme Q10; powerful antioxidant
  • Laminaria Digitata Extract - kelp; helps with skin hydration
  • Soluble Collagen - USELESS because the molecules are too large to penetrate the skin
  • Lecithin - derived from eggs and soybeans; emollient, emulsifier, spreading agent with antioxidant properties
  • Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein - helps with skin moisture levels
  • Triethanolamine - emulsifier and pH adjuster
  • Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer - film former
  • Dimethylsilanol hyaluronate - humectant
  • Methylparaben - preservative
  • Citric Acid - balance pH levels
  • Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein - HERE'S THE PEARL! Hydrosolate of black pearl. Conchiolin is a protein that is contained in the inner layers of sea shells and pearls, and gives the shells strength and structure. Used as a skin conditioning agent therefore helps with skin moisture
  • Polysorbate 20 - oil-in-water emulsifier
  • Xanthan gum - thickener and emulsion stabilizer
  • Carbomer - emulsion stabilizer and controls consistency
  • Fragrance
  • Sodium Hydroxide - buffering agent and pH adjuster
  • Potassium Hydroxide - buffering agent and pH adjuster

As you can see from the list above, the first few ingredients are similar to the Apple Polyphenol Mask. Like the apple mask, it contains a large number of ingredients with hydrating properties, although it has a bit less anti-inflammatory ingredients. As for the black pearl protein, it will likely not do much. At most, it will help provide some moisture, but there are already a lot of ingredients that do the same thing, so I see it as a marketing gimmick. I noticed pineapple extract is higher up on the ingredient list, so maybe they should take the black pearl out, add more pineapple extract and fragrance, and rename it Pineapple Enzyme Mask!

Weleda Wild Rose Night Cream Review

This is a very thick moisturizer that has the same lavender-herbal scent as the Wild Rose cleanser. It comes in a sanitary metal tube, so you can squeeze out every last bit.

At night, I use a very small pea-sized amount, warm it up between my fingers, and pat it over my face. I also used it around my eye area with no problem.

I don't find it sinks in my skin very well and it's not very hydrating. My skin is soft and moisturized in the morning, but I get that from all creams. It says on the packaging that this has a "revitalising effect" but I couldn't tell. I will update once I finish the whole tube.

Ingredients:


Similar to the cleansing lotion, the cream has water, peach kernal oil, and sweet almond oil as their main ingredients, with the musk rose seed oil coming up much later on the ingredient list. Again, the alcohol is probably used as a preservative.

Since it is made up of mostly plant oils, this would be good for dry skin types (your skin lacks oil). If you are DEHYDRATED (your skin lacks water), this cream alone will not offer the hydration needed, but it will be good for sealing the H20 in your skin. I would recommend using this over slightly damp skin or on top of a hydrating serum.

I would caution acne-prone skin types from using this product because it contains potentially pore-clogging ingredients lanolin and glyceryl stearate se.

I like the Wild Rose cleansing lotion, but I'm not a big fan of this cream because I haven't seen it do much for my skin other than just moisturizing. I can just get pure, cold-pressed rose hip oil  from my health food for under $20, which will probaby offer a higher concentration of omega fatty acids.

UPDATE: I gave this to my mom because it wsas too rich for my skin 

Review of Shiseido Ultra Sun Protection SPF50 Lotion and Cream

Shiseido Ultra Sun Protection Lotion SPF50

 I bought this because I wanted something lighter than MAC's SPF 50. This lotion retails for $49CAD for 100ML. This may seem expensive, but it is actually not  bad compared to MAC's SPF50, since you get more ML per $.

 

Active Ingredients:

  • Zinc Oxide 13.9% (absorbs UVB, UVA1&UVA2)

  • Octinoxate 7.4% (absorbs UVB) 

Pros:

  • Very light, thin fluid so is ideal for re-applying over makeup

  • Dries to a matte-finish and cosmetically elegant under makeup

  • Very water resistant

  • High amount of zinc oxide,and I am told by the Shiseido sales associate that this is PA+++. However, PPD is unknown.

  • Easy to find (Sears, Sephora, Shoppers Drug Mart, etc.)

 Cons:

  • Contains silicones so can be pore-clogging

  • Strongly fragranced ( I personally prefer unscented)

 

Shiseido Ultra Sun Protection Cream SPF50

Received this from Sephora by redeeming 100 points! It has exactly the same active ingredients as the lotion version, but is just a bit heavier in texture so it is ideal for dry skin. I think this is more like a light lotion than a cream. 

Same active ingredients as the lotion version
Pros:
  • Light-weight, non-greasy and cosmetically elegant under makeup; more moisturizing than then lotion

  • Very water resistant

  • High amount of zinc oxide, PA+++, unknown PPD

  • Easy to find (Sears, Sephora, Shoppers Drug Mart, etc.)

 Cons:

  • Contains silicones so can be pore-clogging

  • Strongly fragranced ( I personally prefer unscented)


Shiseido Ultra Sun Protection SPF50 Cream (left) versus Lotion (right)
Both the lotion and cream have an invisible finish

 

Review of Neutrogena Ultrasheer Dry-Touch SPF55 and Healthy Defense Daily Moisturizer SPF45

 

Neutrogena Ultrasheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen SPF55

I don't own the full size bottle - I received a freebie sample size.
This is a light lotion, but definitely not as "fluid" as La Roche Posay Fluide Extreme. However, a few minutes after application, it completely absorbs into my skin, leaving it soft and smooth without any greasy residue - definitely "dry-touch."  It has a faint chemical-floral scent, which I am not fond of.
Swatch of Neutrogena UltraSheer Dry Touch SPF55

Active Ingredients:
  •  Homosalate 10.0% - absorbs UVB
  • Oxybenzone 6.0% - absorbs UVB and UVA2, but possibly photo-carcinogenic
  • Octisalate 5.0% - absorbs UVB
  • Avobenzone 3.0% - absorbs UVA1; very photo-unstable, but can be stabilized by octocrylene
  • Octocrylene 2.8% - absorbs UVB

After punching in the numbers in BASF sunscreen simulator, the estimate was a PPD of 9, PA+++. 

 

Neutrogena Healthy Defense Daily Moisturizer SPF45

This is another freebie sample I got from Neutrogena
This one is also a light lotion, but it doesn't leave the "dry-touch" feeling, although it is not greasy either. Makes sense since it is supposed to be a moisturizer. It has the same chemical-floral scent as the one above.
Swatch of Neutrogena Daily Defense Moisturizer SPF45 - as you can see, it has a slightly thicker consistency than then UltraSheer above

The active ingredients are identical to the Neutrogena UltraSheer SPF55, just slightly different percentages.

Active Ingredients:
  • Homosalate 12%
  • Oxybenzone 6%
  • Octisalate 5%
  • Avobenzone 3%
  • Octocrylene 2.35%

BASF sunscreen simulator estimates that this has a PPD of 8.7, PA+++.

As you can see from the ingredient lists above, the star ingredients for UVA protection in the two Neutrogena sunscreens are Oxybenzone and Avobenzone. This combination, known as Helioplex, is held by Neutrogena. 

If I were to pick one of the Neutrogena sunscreens, I would opt for the UltraSheer Dry-Touch since you can re-apply this throughout the day without making your face greasy. 
I still prefer La Roche Posay, since the use of Mexoryl offers a higher PPD and more photostability.

Review of Fallene Solar Protection Formula TiZO2 Facial Mineral Fusion SPF40

Like the name suggests, it contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Since I bought this in Canada there is no way to tell how much UVA protection this provides. This product also comes in a tinted version, which I don't have on hand to show you guys.

 

Active Ingredients:

  • Titanium Dioxide 8% (absorbs UVB & UVA2)

  • Zinc Oxide 3.8% (absorbs UVB, UVA1&UVA2)

  I also found their package drawing outline, which I thought was kinda neat! However, I did notice that instead of a DIN, it has a NDC number. A NDC number is issued by the FDA. I bought mine in Canada, directly from the company....which means this product was being sold illegally...?!

Swatch of TiZO2 Facial Mineral Fusion
TiZO2 Facial Mineral Fusion - pretty much invisible after it is spread out

Pros:

  • Completely mineral-based so good for those who find chemical sunscreens irritating

  • Contains silicones so it acts as a primer and sunscreen in one and is cosmetically elegant under makeup

  • Oil-free and paraben free

Cons:

  •  High amount of silicones therefore can be pore-clogging

  • Difficult to find - I found this at an aesthetic show. I know some derms carry it

  • Zinc oxide % in this is quite low, but the rep told me it has high UVA protection. Again, it really depends on the particle size of the zinc oxide, and how it is coated. I will have to look into this further and update in the future.

    NOTE: A lot of companies are using micronized zinc oxide - while it is aesthetically appealing since it leaves no white cast, it does lower the protection. Personally, I wouldn't count on this sunscreen providing good UVA protection, until I see scientific evidence of their UVA testing. Although it is not specified on the product label, this one likely uses micronized zinc, since it is quite invisible on the skin with no white cast, and it has the lowest zinc oxide % out of all the zinc oxide sunscreens I tried.