Since summer is here, I have had a lot of questions about choosing sunscreen. I cannot stress the importance of wearing sunscreen daily! It is the BEST anti-aging product you can use. Sun damage is also cumulative, meaning a few minutes here and there all add up.
I will be continually updating this post with new information.
First, lets go over some technical stuff:
1. There are 3 different types of UV rays: UVA, UVB, and UVC.
- UVA(320-400nm): The sneaky and scariest one - accounts for 95% of UV radation that reaches Earth. Clouds and glass cannot stop it! You can't feel it at all, and it bounces around everywhere. UVA rays have a long wavelength so it penetrates into the deeper layer of your skin (the dermis) and causes damage. This leads to premature aging of the skin (photo-aging), wrinkles, sunspots, and saggy skin, etc. It may also cause DNA damage to cells in the outer layer of skin, thus playing a role in skin cancer. UVA is furthur broken down into UVA1(340-400nm) and UVA2(320-340nm)
- UVB(290-320nm): This one is what gives you a sunburn and makes your skin red.UVB is a shorter wavelength, so it only damages the outer layer of your skin (epidermis). However, it has a major role in the development of skin cancer, and contributes to skin aging and tanning. It doesn't penetrate glass as much as UVA.
- UVC: We don't have to worry about this one (for now) because it is absorbed by the ozone and doesn't reach Earth
2. There are 2 different types of sunscreen filters: chemical, and mineral. Some sunscreens are a mixture of both filters.
- Chemical: chemical filters absorb different wavelengths of UV. However, some can be unstable and degrade fast. Usually chemical sunscreens use a number of different chemical filters to cover the whole wavelength.
- Mineral (physical): typically Zinc Oxide, or Titanium Dioxide. Zinc oxide is broad spectrum (meaning it absorbs both UVA and UVB wavelengths Mineral sunscreen filters are more stable because they reflect light, but can leave a white cast. Nowadays, mineral filters can be micronized, so they will be invisible and cosmetically elegant.
3. Once you develop a tan, it means your skin is already damaged by UVA. A tan is your body's attempt to protect against further damage. Note that this doesn't mean the tan will protect, it is only an ATTEMPT. Just so you tanning bed folks are aware, tanning beds emit primarily UVA rays.
4. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is only a measure of UVB rays. That's right, not UVA AND UVB, JUST UVB!! It is a measure of how long it takes UVB rays to redden the skin.
5. In Europe, Japan and some other countries, the government requires a measure of UVA stated on the sunscreen label . In Europe, they use PPD (Persistant Skin Darkening). In Japan, they use PA (the more "+" the better). The United States is working towards a UVA system, known as PFA, although this is not the same as PPD. We're a little behind in Canada and haven't adopted UVA evaluation yet.
6. In Canada, sunscreen is classified as a drug. This means that the drug identity number (DIN), active and inactive ingredient(s), and the expiration date must be clearly stated on the label. If you come across a sunscreen in Canada with no DIN and no active ingredients list, don't buy it! It may be illegal and falsely labelled.
So how do you choose a good sunscreen????
Unfortunately, us Canadians are at a disadvantage because it is difficult to determine how much UVA protection a sunscreen actually provides. In Canada, even if a sunscreen is labelled as "broad-spectrum," it may not have adequate UVA protection. Even a sunscreen labeled SPF100 may not have good UVA protection.
Chemical (Organic) Sunscreens:
In Canada, we are allowed to use a chemical filter called Mexoryl. L'Oreal makes Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl LX, which are supposedly great UVA absorbers, and more photostable than other chemical filters. Photostability is important because it affects the effectiveness of the product, and it also means you don't have to reapply it as often. Mexoryl SX and LX are typically combined with other sunscreen
ingredients, such as titanium dioxide, avobenzone, and octocrylene, to
provide broad spectrum protection.
Mexoryl SX and LX can be found in some of L'Oreal
owned brands, such as Ombrelle, La Roche Posay, and Vichy. Surprisingly, it is not used in L'Oreal owned brands Lancome and Kiehl's in Canada, although the sunscreen bottle is almost identical to the Vichy one.
I also saw that it was used in Garnier's products in China. In the States, Mexorul SX has been approved but LX is still unavailable, which is too bad because they two work together synergistically to offer amazing UVA protection.
In Europe, a higher percentage of Mexoryl SX and LX is allowed in sunscreen, allowing for higher UVA protection. Last time I checked using a sunscreen simulator/calculator, Canadian products with Mexoryl usually only have a PPD around 20, compared to European ones with PPD over 30.
HOWEVER,
I've read that L'Oreal conducted the research for Mexoryl, so there may be bias, and no way of knowing how accurate their data is.
Mexoryl is approved
in Canada, Europe, China and many other countries, but only recently the
US FDA approved it. Why they did not approve it? No idea, but if I ever
find out I will let you guys know! Update: According to Dr. Darrell S. Rigel, a dermatologist from New York University, it was a matter of bureaucracy with the FDA, not an issue of safety.
Mineral (Inorganic) Sunscreen:
Titanium and Zinc Oxide are the two common active ingredients used for mineral sunscreen.
I don't suggest using a sunscreen with just titanium dioxide because it only offers UVB protection.
Zinc Oxide offers both UVA
and UVB protection, however the protection is lower than that offered by chemical sunscreens. If you are picking a mineral sunscreen, look for one with BOTH Zinc Oxide AND Titanium Dioxide. While Zinc Oxide is broad spectrum, it is not as good as Titanium Dioxide at providing UVB and UVA2 proection.
It is also common for a sunscreen to be formulated with both mineral and chemical filters. I often see Zinc Oxide formulated with Octinoxate, so that less Zinc Oxide is used, therefore less white cast.
Again, it is difficult to determine how
much UVA protection you are actually getting without knowing the PPD. Recently. there is a craze with Zinc
Oxide because of its photostability and the whole "green and organic" movement and transition away from chemicals.
Mineral or Chemical?
If you want to be a hardcore UVA blocker and you don't really give a darn about chemicals AND you have access to European sunscreens, than I would suggest using a chemical sunscreen with Mexoryl SX and LX (basically most L'Oreal products) or Tinsorb. However, be aware that chemical sunscreens can break down if you are in direct sunlight for around 2 hours. Also, some makeup may contain chemical sunscreens that may interfere. Make sure that the sunscreens DO NOT contain BOTH Octinoxate and Avobenzone. This is a crucial point, because Avobenzone is degraded by Octinoxate. Ugh! We don't want that, so be sure to read your labels!
For most of us that wear makeup, it would be a hassle to reapply sunscreen over makeup. Therefore, for days where you are mostly indoors, I prefer a Zinc Oxide based sunscreen. However, I don't use zinc oxide based sunscreens alone on days where I am out in the sun since I have not found one that FOR SURE offers high PPD.
If you are very health conscious, and care about parabens, sulfates, and all that jazz, than choose a sunscreen with ONLY mineral filters such as Zinc Oxide and Titaniun Dioxide, which will still block your UVB and UVA rays.
UPDATE: Be aware that just because zinc oxide is broad spectrum, that doesn't mean it offers great UVA protection. UVA protection is not all or nothing - you are protected up to a percentage, analogous to SPF for UVB. A lot of companies are using micronized zinc oxide - while it is
aesthetically appealing since it leaves no white cast, but it does lower
the protection. It depends on your skin -- some people find
chemical sunscreens irritating, so they can only use mineral, and vice versa.
If you can find a zinc oxide based sunscreen with high PPD or PA+++ from Europe, that is ideal.
You can calculate your sunscreen PPD here. Be aware this sunscreen calculator is only an estimate - it does not take into account particle sizes of mineral filters, which can make a huge difference. Typically, mineral filters are in oil base.
10 Commandments of Sunscreen:
1. For any sunscreen, always choose at least SPF30 and up. SPF 15 that comes in your moisturizer or foundation is not enough. Why? Because SPF 15 blocks 93% of UV rays and may not have adequate UVA protection, whereas studies have shown that SPF30 blocks about 97% of UV rays. Anything higher than SPF30 will not block much more (97~98% of UV rays), BUT you may get better UVA protection.
Be wary of sunscreens that contain aloe vera. Since aloe vera is anti-inflammatory and calms skin redness, companies sometimes use this to boost the SPF rating (which measures skin reddening). However, aloe DOES NOT protect your skin against UV rays. Blasphemy!!
2. Chemical sunscreens are best applied UNDERNEATH your moisturizer. It needs to be as close to the skin as possible, so it can work properly. If you have a water-based serum that absorbs completely, you can apply that before the sunscreen. If your skin is not too dry, you may even skip putting a moisturizer over top of the sunscreen (the moisturizer may reduce the efficacy of the sunscreen), but be sure to use a hydrating serum. Mineral sunscreens are best applied OVER moisturizer because they reflect UV rays.
3. Apply a chemical sunscreen at least 30 minutes prior to sun exposure, so it has a chance to absorb into your
skin and work properly.
4. Apply ENOUGH sunscreen, and apply evenly. You generally need 1/4 teaspoon for your face. For other sun exposed areas, try to estimate based on the size of your face. For example, I would apply 1/4 teaspoon of sunscreen to the back of BOTH hands, which is about the same surface area as my face. If you don't apply enough, you won't get the protection stated on the label. I'm also not a big fan of spray sunscreens, since it is difficult to achieve an even layer (unless you are using it for your hair).
5. Your skin does not stop at your face! Don't forget to apply sunscreen around your eyes, ears, lips (use a lip product with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide), neck, declette, and back of hands
6. RE-APPLY your sunscreen, especially if it is a chemical one because it degrades. You need to reapply it after being in DIRECT sunlight for 2 hours. If you are indoors, it depends on how much direct sun exposure you receive. For example, if you have an office job but you sit by the window and there is bright sunlight shining on your face constantly, then you should re-apply your sunscreen every two hours. If you are going to school, running around doing errands, and they TOTAL amount of direct sunlight adds up to 2 hours or less, than I wouldn't bother re-applying. If I do have to reapply my sunscreen, I prefer zinc oxide since it does not have to absorb and be close to the skin (if I am wearing makeup).
In Canada, we are allowed to use a chemical filter called Mexoryl. L'Oreal makes Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl LX, which are supposedly great UVA absorbers, and more photostable than other chemical filters. Photostability is important because it affects the effectiveness of the product, and it also means you don't have to reapply it as often. Mexoryl SX and LX are typically combined with other sunscreen ingredients, such as titanium dioxide, avobenzone, and octocrylene, to provide broad spectrum protection.
Mexoryl SX and LX can be found in some of L'Oreal owned brands, such as Ombrelle, La Roche Posay, and Vichy. Surprisingly, it is not used in L'Oreal owned brands Lancome and Kiehl's in Canada, although the sunscreen bottle is almost identical to the Vichy one. I also saw that it was used in Garnier's products in China. In the States, Mexorul SX has been approved but LX is still unavailable, which is too bad because they two work together synergistically to offer amazing UVA protection.
In Europe, a higher percentage of Mexoryl SX and LX is allowed in sunscreen, allowing for higher UVA protection. Last time I checked using a sunscreen simulator/calculator, Canadian products with Mexoryl usually only have a PPD around 20, compared to European ones with PPD over 30.
HOWEVER,
I've read that L'Oreal conducted the research for Mexoryl, so there may be bias, and no way of knowing how accurate their data is.
Mexoryl is approved
in Canada, Europe, China and many other countries, but only recently the
US FDA approved it. Why they did not approve it? No idea, but if I ever
find out I will let you guys know! Update: According to Dr. Darrell S. Rigel, a dermatologist from New York University, it was a matter of bureaucracy with the FDA, not an issue of safety.
Mineral (Inorganic) Sunscreen:
Titanium and Zinc Oxide are the two common active ingredients used for mineral sunscreen.
I don't suggest using a sunscreen with just titanium dioxide because it only offers UVB protection.
Zinc Oxide offers both UVA and UVB protection, however the protection is lower than that offered by chemical sunscreens. If you are picking a mineral sunscreen, look for one with BOTH Zinc Oxide AND Titanium Dioxide. While Zinc Oxide is broad spectrum, it is not as good as Titanium Dioxide at providing UVB and UVA2 proection.
It is also common for a sunscreen to be formulated with both mineral and chemical filters. I often see Zinc Oxide formulated with Octinoxate, so that less Zinc Oxide is used, therefore less white cast.
Again, it is difficult to determine how much UVA protection you are actually getting without knowing the PPD. Recently. there is a craze with Zinc Oxide because of its photostability and the whole "green and organic" movement and transition away from chemicals.
Mineral or Chemical?
For most of us that wear makeup, it would be a hassle to reapply sunscreen over makeup. Therefore, for days where you are mostly indoors, I prefer a Zinc Oxide based sunscreen. However, I don't use zinc oxide based sunscreens alone on days where I am out in the sun since I have not found one that FOR SURE offers high PPD.
If you are very health conscious, and care about parabens, sulfates, and all that jazz, than choose a sunscreen with ONLY mineral filters such as Zinc Oxide and Titaniun Dioxide, which will still block your UVB and UVA rays.
UPDATE: Be aware that just because zinc oxide is broad spectrum, that doesn't mean it offers great UVA protection. UVA protection is not all or nothing - you are protected up to a percentage, analogous to SPF for UVB. A lot of companies are using micronized zinc oxide - while it is
aesthetically appealing since it leaves no white cast, but it does lower
the protection. It depends on your skin -- some people find
chemical sunscreens irritating, so they can only use mineral, and vice versa.
If you can find a zinc oxide based sunscreen with high PPD or PA+++ from Europe, that is ideal.
You can calculate your sunscreen PPD here. Be aware this sunscreen calculator is only an estimate - it does not take into account particle sizes of mineral filters, which can make a huge difference. Typically, mineral filters are in oil base.
10 Commandments of Sunscreen:
1. For any sunscreen, always choose at least SPF30 and up. SPF 15 that comes in your moisturizer or foundation is not enough. Why? Because SPF 15 blocks 93% of UV rays and may not have adequate UVA protection, whereas studies have shown that SPF30 blocks about 97% of UV rays. Anything higher than SPF30 will not block much more (97~98% of UV rays), BUT you may get better UVA protection.
Be wary of sunscreens that contain aloe vera. Since aloe vera is anti-inflammatory and calms skin redness, companies sometimes use this to boost the SPF rating (which measures skin reddening). However, aloe DOES NOT protect your skin against UV rays. Blasphemy!!
Be wary of sunscreens that contain aloe vera. Since aloe vera is anti-inflammatory and calms skin redness, companies sometimes use this to boost the SPF rating (which measures skin reddening). However, aloe DOES NOT protect your skin against UV rays. Blasphemy!!
2. Chemical sunscreens are best applied UNDERNEATH your moisturizer. It needs to be as close to the skin as possible, so it can work properly. If you have a water-based serum that absorbs completely, you can apply that before the sunscreen. If your skin is not too dry, you may even skip putting a moisturizer over top of the sunscreen (the moisturizer may reduce the efficacy of the sunscreen), but be sure to use a hydrating serum. Mineral sunscreens are best applied OVER moisturizer because they reflect UV rays.
3. Apply a chemical sunscreen at least 30 minutes prior to sun exposure, so it has a chance to absorb into your skin and work properly.
4. Apply ENOUGH sunscreen, and apply evenly. You generally need 1/4 teaspoon for your face. For other sun exposed areas, try to estimate based on the size of your face. For example, I would apply 1/4 teaspoon of sunscreen to the back of BOTH hands, which is about the same surface area as my face. If you don't apply enough, you won't get the protection stated on the label. I'm also not a big fan of spray sunscreens, since it is difficult to achieve an even layer (unless you are using it for your hair).
5. Your skin does not stop at your face! Don't forget to apply sunscreen around your eyes, ears, lips (use a lip product with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide), neck, declette, and back of hands
6. RE-APPLY your sunscreen, especially if it is a chemical one because it degrades. You need to reapply it after being in DIRECT sunlight for 2 hours. If you are indoors, it depends on how much direct sun exposure you receive. For example, if you have an office job but you sit by the window and there is bright sunlight shining on your face constantly, then you should re-apply your sunscreen every two hours. If you are going to school, running around doing errands, and they TOTAL amount of direct sunlight adds up to 2 hours or less, than I wouldn't bother re-applying. If I do have to reapply my sunscreen, I prefer zinc oxide since it does not have to absorb and be close to the skin (if I am wearing makeup).
7. Wear your sunscreen everyday, even if it is cloudy, even if it is winter! Remember that UVA rays cannot be blocked by clouds, smog, and glass.
9. Do not buy sunscreen or mix sunscreen products that contain both octinoxate and avobenzone
10. Be aware of your Vitamin D levels. Our bodies synthesize Vitamin D when exposed to sunlight, so if you are protecting your skin with sunscreen and covering up, you may not be getting adequate Vit D. You should have about 1000 IU per day. Vitamin D will affect your calcium absorption, which is especially important for females. Always consult with your doctor first!
***NOTE: Although it is important to avoid sun peak hours (10am ~ 3pm), stay in the shade, wear a wide-brimmed hat, etc., you should always be protected! UVA is prevalent from dawn till dusk in THE SAME AMOUNT every single day of the year, rain, snow, or shine and also contributes to skin cancer. Sun exposure is CUMULATIVE, so a few minutes here and there all add up. A lot of our skin damage actually comes from accidental exposure.
My current sunscreen routine:
1. Apply a 10% vitamin C serum. Vitamin C and other antioxidants helps to absorb UV radiation, and works synergistically with chemical sunscreens to protect your skin. I like Ole Hendrikson's Truth Serum because it is water based and absorbs right into my skin. I have used it around my eye area with no problem.
2. Apply a chemical sunscreen. Please note that the chemical sunscreen has to be close to your skin and be used UNDERNEATH moisturizer to be effective. This is why I use a serum that absorbs well. I am currently using La Roche Posay Anthelios Fluide Extreme ( I bought mine from Europe because it has a very high PPD rating of 31 since in Europe they are allowed to use a higher concentration of Mexoryl SX and LX).
3. Apply moisturizer
4. Apply a zinc oxide sunscreen for added protection. The reason why I do this is because on days where I am out in the sun a lot, it is inconvenient to apply chemical suscreen over my makeup. For chemical sunscreen to work properly, they should be applied on BARE skin. Therefore, I opt for a mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide. However, I don't trust the UVA protection provided by Zinc Oxide based sunscreens alone, even though they are broad spectrum. I have yet to find one that provides a PPD over 10. However, mixing sunscreens is a complicated matter and you have to be aware of the active ingredients' compatibility so one doesn't degrade or decrease the efficiency of another. For the average consumer, it is easier just to use a good chemical sunscreen with a high PPD or a mineral sunscreen with a high percentage of Zinc Oxide.
5. Apply makeup. I only use sunscreen-free makeup to avoid possible interference.
6. Reapply sunscreen throughout the day if I am in direct sunlight for more than 2 hours.
Removing sunscreen during evening cleansing routine:
If you are using sunscreen, especially one with chemical filters, it is best to use a cleansing oil to remove it. This is because a lot of sunscreens have silicones in them, and most chemical sunscreens HAVE to contain oil because the chemicals are oil-soluble. Therefore, if you don't remove it completely, it may clog your pores. The cleansing oil will remove sunscreen effectively, especially water-resistant ones, so your skin can breathe properly.
For sensitive or acne-prone skin and babies:
For babies, children, sensitive and acne-prone individuals, it is best to use a mineral based sunscreen with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. This is because zinc oxide is less irritating than chemical sunscreen filters. There are also a couple chemical filters that are under scrutiny right now: oxybenzone and octocrylene. Zinc oxide, which is also used in diaper rash cream, is the safest so far for babies and kids.
7. Wear your sunscreen everyday, even if it is cloudy, even if it is winter! Remember that UVA rays cannot be blocked by clouds, smog, and glass.
10. Be aware of your Vitamin D levels. Our bodies synthesize Vitamin D when exposed to sunlight, so if you are protecting your skin with sunscreen and covering up, you may not be getting adequate Vit D. You should have about 1000 IU per day. Vitamin D will affect your calcium absorption, which is especially important for females. Always consult with your doctor first!
***NOTE: Although it is important to avoid sun peak hours (10am ~ 3pm), stay in the shade, wear a wide-brimmed hat, etc., you should always be protected! UVA is prevalent from dawn till dusk in THE SAME AMOUNT every single day of the year, rain, snow, or shine and also contributes to skin cancer. Sun exposure is CUMULATIVE, so a few minutes here and there all add up. A lot of our skin damage actually comes from accidental exposure.
My current sunscreen routine:
1. Apply a 10% vitamin C serum. Vitamin C and other antioxidants helps to absorb UV radiation, and works synergistically with chemical sunscreens to protect your skin. I like Ole Hendrikson's Truth Serum because it is water based and absorbs right into my skin. I have used it around my eye area with no problem.
2. Apply a chemical sunscreen. Please note that the chemical sunscreen has to be close to your skin and be used UNDERNEATH moisturizer to be effective. This is why I use a serum that absorbs well. I am currently using La Roche Posay Anthelios Fluide Extreme ( I bought mine from Europe because it has a very high PPD rating of 31 since in Europe they are allowed to use a higher concentration of Mexoryl SX and LX).
3. Apply moisturizer
4. Apply a zinc oxide sunscreen for added protection. The reason why I do this is because on days where I am out in the sun a lot, it is inconvenient to apply chemical suscreen over my makeup. For chemical sunscreen to work properly, they should be applied on BARE skin. Therefore, I opt for a mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide. However, I don't trust the UVA protection provided by Zinc Oxide based sunscreens alone, even though they are broad spectrum. I have yet to find one that provides a PPD over 10. However, mixing sunscreens is a complicated matter and you have to be aware of the active ingredients' compatibility so one doesn't degrade or decrease the efficiency of another. For the average consumer, it is easier just to use a good chemical sunscreen with a high PPD or a mineral sunscreen with a high percentage of Zinc Oxide.
5. Apply makeup. I only use sunscreen-free makeup to avoid possible interference.
6. Reapply sunscreen throughout the day if I am in direct sunlight for more than 2 hours.
Removing sunscreen during evening cleansing routine:
If you are using sunscreen, especially one with chemical filters, it is best to use a cleansing oil to remove it. This is because a lot of sunscreens have silicones in them, and most chemical sunscreens HAVE to contain oil because the chemicals are oil-soluble. Therefore, if you don't remove it completely, it may clog your pores. The cleansing oil will remove sunscreen effectively, especially water-resistant ones, so your skin can breathe properly.
For sensitive or acne-prone skin and babies:
For babies, children, sensitive and acne-prone individuals, it is best to use a mineral based sunscreen with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. This is because zinc oxide is less irritating than chemical sunscreen filters. There are also a couple chemical filters that are under scrutiny right now: oxybenzone and octocrylene. Zinc oxide, which is also used in diaper rash cream, is the safest so far for babies and kids.
