Review: The Face Shop Real Nature Mask Lemon

Sorry so be away for so long! School has been extremely hectic...

The late nights, stress, and bad eating habits have definitely dulled my skin. I recently picked up this lemon mask for about $1.50 from the new Face Shop at Pacific Mall in Toronto.

This is the first Face Shop product I have ever tried. This lemon brightening mask claims to contain 1000mg of "extract grounded from fresh lemon".  Apparently it is "bursting with vitamin C" which willl help to brighten dull skin. Sounds like exactly what I need!

Compared to My Beauty Diary Masks, the Face Shop mask is a bit bigger. Thus, I don't find it fits my face as well. It also doesn't come with the plastic backing that MBD masks have, so it is more difficult to open. It does not contain as much extra serum as MBD masks either. I was also kind of disappointed with the scent - I was expecting a  refreshing lemon scent, but instead it smelled a bit artificial and disappeared quickly. 

Ingredients:

• water
• butylene glycol - humectant and solvent with anti-microbial action; enhances the preservative activity of parabens
• glycerin - humectant, draws moisture from the air thus helps the skin to retain moisture
• citrus medica limonum (lemon) fruit extract - skin brightening with exfoliating, antibacterial, antiseptic, astringent properties
• sd alcohol 40-b - (denatured alcohol) antibacterial and perservative effect but can dry out the skin
• betaine - anti inflammatory
• sodium hyaluronate - hydrates down to the deeper layers of skin; holds up to 1000 times its weight in water
• xanthan gum - thickener and emulsion stabilizer
• hydrogenated lecithin - emulsifying agent
• dimethicone - a silicone that forms barrier on skin thus preventing water loss
• phaseolus radiatus extract (mung bean) - apparently this is anti-aging by stimulating collagen production
• betula platyphylla japonica bark extract (Asian white birch) - anti-aging and anti-inflammatory
• rumex crispus root extract - apparently this helps with acne and is anti-inflammatory
• carbomer - emulsion stabilizer and controls consistency
• peg-40 hydrogenated caster oil
• triethanolamine - emulsifier and pH adjuster
• methylparaben - preservative
• propylparaben - preservative
• fragrance

My face feels slightly tingly with this mask on, probably due to the acidic nature of lemon extract. To give you an idea, a 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice contains just under 30mg vitamin C. However, the label claims it contains 1000mg of extract from lemons, not vitamin C, so it is difficult to say how much vitamin C is actually in the product. Based on the ingredients, this mask should be brightening and exfoliating. It would be ideal for combination (normal to oily) ,oily, and acne-prone skin types since there are a number of anti-inflammatory and astringent ingredients. I wouldn't count on it providing any anti-aging benefits.

Result: My skin was slightly brighter right after, but dull again the next morning. It did feel smoother, probably due to the acids. I would say this mask is better for exfoliating. I prefer My Beauty Dairy's Apply Polyphenol mask better for brightening.

Review of MAC Prep + Prime Face Protect SPF50

 

I got a sample of this from my MAC store the other day. It is not as light as I would like, but still nice under makeup. $36.50 CAD for 30mL

Active Ingredients: 

• Zinc oxide 16.1% (absorbs UVB, UVA1&UVA2)

• Octinoxate 7.5% (absorbs UVB) 
  

Pros:

• Easy to find if you have a MAC store close by

• Primer and sunscreen in one

• High amount of zinc oxide, but again, since I am in Canada, there is no way to tell how much UVA protection this actually provides. 

• Cosmetically elegant with good oil control and prevented my makeup from melting off in hot, humid weather. 

Cons:

• Texture is a bit thick so may be difficult to re-apply over makeup

• High amount of silicones therefore can be pore-clogging  

   

  UPDATE DEC 2012: MAC has changed the formulation for this and the oil control has decreased. I don't recommend this anymore.

My Beauty Diary Black Pearl Mask Review

I find this similar to the MBD Apple Polyphenol Mask, but I prefer the apple scent. Some people don't like this as much as the apple mask, perhaps it's due to the increased amount of butylene glycol.

My Beauty Diary Black Pearl Mask Ingredients

• Aqua - water
• Butylene Glycol - humectant and solvent with anti-microbial action; enhances the preservative activity of parabens
• Glycerin - humectant, draws moisture from the air thus helps the skin to retain moisture
• Propylene Glycol - humectant, draws moisture from the air
• Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice - hydrating, softening, soothing, and anti-inflammatory
• Sodium Hyaluronate - hydrates down to the deeper layers of skin; holds up to 1000 times its weight in water
• Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract - pineapple juice contains AHAs therefore it is exfoliating
• Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract - skin brightening with exfoliating, antibacterial, antiseptic, astringent properties
• Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract - soothing, hydrating, and anti-inflammatory
• Ubiquinone - aka coenzyme Q10; powerful antioxidant
• Laminaria Digitata Extract - kelp; helps with skin hydration
• Soluble Collagen - USELESS because the molecules are too large to penetrate the skin
• Lecithin - derived from eggs and soybeans; emollient, emulsifier, spreading agent with antioxidant properties
• Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein - helps with skin moisture levels
• Triethanolamine - emulsifier and pH adjuster
• Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer - film former
• Dimethylsilanol hyaluronate - humectant
• Methylparaben - preservative
• Citric Acid - balance pH levels
• Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein - HERE'S THE PEARL! Hydrosolate of black pearl. Conchiolin is a protein that is contained in the inner layers of sea shells and pearls, and gives the shells strength and structure. Used as a skin conditioning agent therefore helps with skin moisture
• Polysorbate 20 - oil-in-water emulsifier
• Xanthan gum - thickener and emulsion stabilizer
• Carbomer - emulsion stabilizer and controls consistency
• Fragrance
• Sodium Hydroxide - buffering agent and pH adjuster
• Potassium Hydroxide - buffering agent and pH adjuster

As you can see from the list above, the first few ingredients are similar to the Apple Polyphenol Mask. Like the apple mask, it contains a large number of ingredients with hydrating properties, although it has a bit less anti-inflammatory ingredients. As for the black pearl protein, it will likely not do much. At most, it will help provide some moisture, but there are already a lot of ingredients that do the same thing, so I see it as a marketing gimmick. I noticed pineapple extract is higher up on the ingredient list, so maybe they should take the black pearl out, add more pineapple extract and fragrance, and rename it Pineapple Enzyme Mask!

Weleda Wild Rose Night Cream Review

This is a very thick moisturizer that has the same lavender-herbal scent as the Wild Rose cleanser. It comes in a sanitary metal tube, so you can squeeze out every last bit.

At night, I use a very small pea-sized amount, warm it up between my fingers, and pat it over my face. I also used it around my eye area with no problem.

I don't find it sinks in my skin very well and it's not very hydrating. My skin is soft and moisturized in the morning, but I get that from all creams. It says on the packaging that this has a "revitalising effect" but I couldn't tell. I will update once I finish the whole tube.

Ingredients:

Similar to the cleansing lotion, the cream has water, peach kernal oil, and sweet almond oil as their main ingredients, with the musk rose seed oil coming up much later on the ingredient list. Again, the alcohol is probably used as a preservative.

Since it is made up of mostly plant oils, this would be good for dry skin types (your skin lacks oil). If you are DEHYDRATED (your skin lacks water), this cream alone will not offer the hydration needed, but it will be good for sealing the H20 in your skin. I would recommend using this over slightly damp skin or on top of a hydrating serum.

I would caution acne-prone skin types from using this product because it contains potentially pore-clogging ingredients lanolin and glyceryl stearate se.

I like the Wild Rose cleansing lotion, but I'm not a big fan of this cream because I haven't seen it do much for my skin other than just moisturizing. I can just get pure, cold-pressed rose hip oil  from my health food for under $20, which will probaby offer a higher concentration of omega fatty acids.

UPDATE: I gave this to my mom because it wsas too rich for my skin 

Review of Shiseido Ultra Sun Protection SPF50 Lotion and Cream

Shiseido Ultra Sun Protection Lotion SPF50

 I bought this because I wanted something lighter than MAC's SPF 50. This lotion retails for $49CAD for 100ML. This may seem expensive, but it is actually not  bad compared to MAC's SPF50, since you get more ML per $.

 

Active Ingredients:

• Zinc Oxide 13.9% (absorbs UVB, UVA1&UVA2)

• Octinoxate 7.4% (absorbs UVB) 
  

Pros:

• Very light, thin fluid so is ideal for re-applying over makeup

• Dries to a matte-finish and cosmetically elegant under makeup

• Very water resistant

• High amount of zinc oxide,and I am told by the Shiseido sales associate that this is PA+++. However, PPD is unknown.

• Easy to find (Sears, Sephora, Shoppers Drug Mart, etc.)

 Cons:

• Contains silicones so can be pore-clogging

• Strongly fragranced ( I personally prefer unscented)

 

Shiseido Ultra Sun Protection Cream SPF50

Received this from Sephora by redeeming 100 points! It has exactly the same active ingredients as the lotion version, but is just a bit heavier in texture so it is ideal for dry skin. I think this is more like a light lotion than a cream. 

Same active ingredients as the lotion version

Pros:

• Light-weight, non-greasy and cosmetically elegant under makeup; more moisturizing than then lotion

• Very water resistant

• High amount of zinc oxide, PA+++, unknown PPD

• Easy to find (Sears, Sephora, Shoppers Drug Mart, etc.)
  

 Cons:

• Contains silicones so can be pore-clogging

• Strongly fragranced ( I personally prefer unscented)

Shiseido Ultra Sun Protection SPF50 Cream (left) versus Lotion (right)

Both the lotion and cream have an invisible finish

 

Review of Neutrogena Ultrasheer Dry-Touch SPF55 and Healthy Defense Daily Moisturizer SPF45

 

Neutrogena Ultrasheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen SPF55

I don't own the full size bottle - I received a freebie sample size.

This is a light lotion, but definitely not as "fluid" as La Roche Posay Fluide Extreme. However, a few minutes after application, it completely absorbs into my skin, leaving it soft and smooth without any greasy residue - definitely "dry-touch."  It has a faint chemical-floral scent, which I am not fond of.

Swatch of Neutrogena UltraSheer Dry Touch SPF55

Active Ingredients:

•  Homosalate 10.0% - absorbs UVB
• Oxybenzone 6.0% - absorbs UVB and UVA2, but possibly photo-carcinogenic
• Octisalate 5.0% - absorbs UVB
• Avobenzone 3.0% - absorbs UVA1; very photo-unstable, but can be stabilized by octocrylene
• Octocrylene 2.8% - absorbs UVB

After punching in the numbers in BASF sunscreen simulator, the estimate was a PPD of 9, PA+++. 

 

Neutrogena Healthy Defense Daily Moisturizer SPF45

This is another freebie sample I got from Neutrogena

This one is also a light lotion, but it doesn't leave the "dry-touch" feeling, although it is not greasy either. Makes sense since it is supposed to be a moisturizer. It has the same chemical-floral scent as the one above.

Swatch of Neutrogena Daily Defense Moisturizer SPF45 - as you can see, it has a slightly thicker consistency than then UltraSheer above

The active ingredients are identical to the Neutrogena UltraSheer SPF55, just slightly different percentages.

Active Ingredients:

• Homosalate 12%
• Oxybenzone 6%
• Octisalate 5%
• Avobenzone 3%
• Octocrylene 2.35%

BASF sunscreen simulator estimates that this has a PPD of 8.7, PA+++.

As you can see from the ingredient lists above, the star ingredients for UVA protection in the two Neutrogena sunscreens are Oxybenzone and Avobenzone. This combination, known as Helioplex, is held by Neutrogena. 

If I were to pick one of the Neutrogena sunscreens, I would opt for the UltraSheer Dry-Touch since you can re-apply this throughout the day without making your face greasy. 

I still prefer La Roche Posay, since the use of Mexoryl offers a higher PPD and more photostability.

Review of Fallene Solar Protection Formula TiZO2 Facial Mineral Fusion SPF40

Like the name suggests, it contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Since I bought this in Canada there is no way to tell how much UVA protection this provides. This product also comes in a tinted version, which I don't have on hand to show you guys.

 

Active Ingredients:

• Titanium Dioxide 8% (absorbs UVB & UVA2)

• Zinc Oxide 3.8% (absorbs UVB, UVA1&UVA2)

  I also found their package drawing outline, which I thought was kinda neat! However, I did notice that instead of a DIN, it has a NDC number. A NDC number is issued by the FDA. I bought mine in Canada, directly from the company....which means this product was being sold illegally...?!

Swatch of TiZO2 Facial Mineral Fusion

TiZO2 Facial Mineral Fusion - pretty much invisible after it is spread out

Pros:

• Completely mineral-based so good for those who find chemical sunscreens irritating

• Contains silicones so it acts as a primer and sunscreen in one and is cosmetically elegant under makeup

• Oil-free and paraben free

Cons:

•  High amount of silicones therefore can be pore-clogging

• Difficult to find - I found this at an aesthetic show. I know some derms carry it

• Zinc oxide % in this is quite low, but the rep told me it has high UVA protection. Again, it really depends on the particle size of the zinc oxide, and how it is coated. I will have to look into this further and update in the future.

  NOTE: A lot of companies are using micronized zinc oxide - while it is aesthetically appealing since it leaves no white cast, it does lower the protection. Personally, I wouldn't count on this sunscreen providing good UVA protection, until I see scientific evidence of their UVA testing. Although it is not specified on the product label, this one likely uses micronized zinc, since it is quite invisible on the skin with no white cast, and it has the lowest zinc oxide % out of all the zinc oxide sunscreens I tried.

Review of Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask

First of all, I would like to clarify that there are no products that will actually shrink pore size permanently. Once a pore is enlarged, it can only get bigger. That being said, there are products that can minimize the appearance of pores and prevent them from getting larger by keeping them clean and happy.

It is a good idea to use a clay-based mask 1~2 times per week to draw out gunk from pores, especially if you are oily-skinned.

Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask claims that the active Charcoal draws out 100~200 times it's weight in impurities, It also claims that China White Clay draws out environmental toxins, but I wouldn't count on that -- even if it does, the amount would be pretty insignificant.

I spread this all over my face after my shower, when my pores are still open from the steam, and leave it on for 20~30 minutes, and remove with warm water.

Ingredients: (I have bolded the important ones)

Water
Myrtus Communis Leaf Water - astringent (reduces irritation and constricts pores)
Kaolin - clay; absorbs oil
Bentonite - clay; absorbs oil
Butylene Glycol - solvent and moisturizer
Montmorillonite - clay; absorbs oil
Polysorbate 20 - surfactant; emulsifier
PEG-100 Stearate - surfactant
Charcoal powder - High surface area allows for high absorption; activated charcoal is given through oral ingestion to treat poisonings and drug overdoses, but not too sure how much this helps if applied externally.
Xanthan Gum - thickner
Lecithin - moisturizer, emollient, and emulsifier with antioxidant effect
PEG 150 Distearate - surfactant and emulsifier
Propylene glycol stearate - emollient and emulsifier
Sorbitan laurate - emulsifier
Glycerin - solvent and moisturizer
Propylene glycol laurate - emollient and emulsifier
Simethicone - emollient
Caprylyl Glycol - moisturizer and emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin - moisturizer
Hexylene Glycol - solvent
Trisodium EDTA - chelating agent and preservative
Dehydroacetic Acid - preservative
Phenoxyethanol - preservative

Pros:

• Not as drying as other clay masks
• Helps to calm down skin congestion and pimples
• Helps to "loosen" and bring black and white heads to surface
• Sanitary tube packaging
• inexpensive
• fragrance-free

Cons:

• Scared my boyfriend when I had this on
• Stings slightly upon application, so may not be suitable for people with sensitive skin
• May not remove all blackheads (depends on how congested and deep your blackheads are)
• Can be messy when removing mask

Review of La Roche Posay Anthelios XL Fluide Extreme 50+ (Tinted and untinted)

  Currently, I am using a plethora of La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL sunscreen products that I got from Europe, for their high PPD UVA protection. However, in the future, I will try to find a high PPD Zinc Oxide sunscreen since it is more photostable.

I have found that all the La Roche Posay sunscreen products sometimes develops a weird chemical smell after several months. I don't know if this means the quality of the product is compromised, but it is best to use up the bottle within a few months, even though the packaging states it is good for 12 months after opening.

 

La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Fluide Extreme 50+

 

Since I bought this from Europe, so the PPD is stated on the packaging. This one has a PPD of a whopping 38, which is extremely high. It is paraben-free and non-perfumed. Since it is a light fluid, like the name suggests, it applies well under makeup. Be aware that it is NOT oil-free, since the chemical filters used are oil-soluble. It also contains a bunch of silicones, so while that may give a smoothing effect, some individuals may find it clogging. You MUST use an oil cleanser to remove this sunscreen!! If you don't, your pores will definitely get clogged up. I have been using this suncreen daily for the past 3 years, and it hasn't broken out my normal-combination skin.

Swatch of La Roche Posay Fluide Extreme

 

Ingredients:

It is quite annoying that Europe doesn't require the active sunscreen ingredients to be listed separately...such a headache to read through!

Anyways, here are the sunscreen ingredients in La Roche Posay's Fluide Extreme:

• Titanium dioxide - blocks UVB

• Octrocrylene - another UVB blocker, but may actually increase the skin's photosensitivity.

• Avobenzone, which is listed as butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane - absorbs UVA1 rays

• Tinsorb S, listed as Bis-ethyl-hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine - a photostable chemical filter that absorbs UVB and UVA1

• Uvinul T 150, listed as ethylhexyl triazone - absorbs UVB

• Mexoryl XL, listed as Drometrizole trisiloxane - photostable and absorbs UVA2; works synergestically with Mexoryl SX

• Mexoryl SX, listed as Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid - photostable and absorbs UVA2

La Roche Posay Anthelios XL Fluide 50+ also comes in a tinted version, which has a slightly lower PPD of 34, maybe due to decreased amount of titanium dioxide? No way to tell, since the percentages of the ingredients are not listed. The consistency of the tinted one is lighter than the regular version. I am a NC20 and this blends right into my skin.

Here is the ingredient list of the Fluide Teinte. The ingredients are basically the same as the regular version so I won't go through it.

 

 

Review of Baviphat AC Therapy Sleeping Pack

I couldn't resist NOT buying this mask because of it's super cute packaging - looks just like an apple! Baviphat is a popular Korean brand. They have all sorts of skin potions packaged in super adorable containers that look like fruit or veggies.

Upon opening the cute apple container, I was attracted by the yummy apple scent. There is a little spoon so you can scoop out the mask, instead of using your fingers.

I find this mask is good for smoothing and calming the skin. It is not as hydrating as I expected. Unlike other masks, this one won't make you look like your ready for Hallowe'en. It goes on clear, and after it dries, it is a bit mattifying. My boyfriend didn't even know I had a mask on!

How I use this:
I use my Ole Hendrikson Truth Serum underneath, slather the mask on, leave it on all night, and rinse off the next morning.

UPDATE:

Found this ingredient list from a website, but I don't know how accurate it is...

 Ingredients
Water / Aqua,  Butylene Glycolh,  Glycerinh,  Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymerszil,  Cyclomethiconeeo|h|szil,  Dimethiconeeo|szil,  Caprylic / Capric Triglycerideeo,  Sodium Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecaneeo,  Polysorbate 80ti|eu,  Alcohol Denat.al,  Betaine h,  Petrolatumeo,  Yellow 6 / CI 15985sz,  Allantoingy,  Phenoxyethanolta,  Yellow 5 / CI 19140sz,  Parfum / Fragrancei,  Arginine,  Carbomer,  Disodium EDTA,  Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Triclosanta 

The ingredients in this mask are nothing special, which is why this mask has such a low price.

Glycerin: Humectant - helps to seal moisture in the skin
Caprylic trigycerides: Emollient - helps to soften the skin
Allantoin: anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory; soothing
Arginine: Supposedly good for wound repair and collagen growth, but not sure how much of this is actually in the product.
Apple Fruit Extract: Brightening and exfoliating, but again, depends on how much of this is actually in the product

This mask is probably only good for softening and soothing the skin, and may help a bit with brightening. Unfortunately, there aren't much hydrating ingredients. Some people may find that this mask helps with pimples, since  it contains allantoin and triclosan. Triclosan is anti-bacterial and anti-fungal (it is often used in hand soaps and sanitizers) but  it has some health controversies around it so I am not particularly fond of it.

I like this mask, but I probably wouldn't repurchase. I prefer the My Beauty Diary masks since it has better ingredients. I bought this one mainly because of the super cute packaging, so I see it more as a novelty product.

For those on a budget who are looking for a mask, I would recommend this one since it is super cheap! I bought the lemon and apple sleeping pack off Ebay for around $15.

All of Baviphat's products are packaged in cute fruit or vegetable containers. I will be trying the lemon one next!